I set the bracketing on my camera to 2 stops. If your shooting rounded and curved surfaces you will want to lower your bracketing to get smoother gradients, although there is a lot of overlap already in the tones as a decent DSLR camera can capture around 11 Stops of exposure. As I shoot a lot of city scapes I can get away with 2 stops, because I’m mainly shooting flat surfaces and banding and posterization isn’t such a problem. One normal exposure, the second underexposed and the third overexposed. It’s psudo HDR, but not to be confused with true HDR.įor more details see the full 4.5 hour video HDR and Photoshop HDR in Photoshop tutorial Step 1 You can apply a tone-mapped effect to a single image for a grungy feel. It’s like “single speaker stereo”, the digital informaition just isn’t there. You can’t get HDR (HIGH Dynamic Range) from a single SDR ( STANDARD dynamic Range) photo. Also there has been misinformation circulating, using the term “Single Image HDR”. This is unnecessary, as you can use the Shadow and Highlight recovery and adjustment brush in Camera Raw or Lightroom to bring out the same amount of detail in the photo. Note: For real HDR, you shouldn’t use a single raw image and exposure it several times as some people suggest. Use a tripod if you can, otherwise support yourself on a wall or solid object to reduce movement between frames. If you change the aperture, the depth of field will also change, producing unwanted blurring in your final composite. Make sure that you only change the shutter speed. I set the camera for Auto Exposure Bracket and 2 stops + and. But once again, for the majority of HDR photography 3 shots are usually perfect. You might be able to capture a lower contrast enviroment such as a foggy day in a single frame. I needed 7 photots with 2 stops apart in order to capture the entire dynamic range of that scene. For the example of the Bradburry building, I captured a series of Photographs inside a dark building in Los Angeles with a sunny day outside a glass window. It really depends on how much contrast is in your scene. Sometimes you need to capture more than 3 exposures. If you’re shooting people, you may want to reduce this to single stops. I know this is a bigger bracket than some people are comfortable with, but for the type of HDR images I like to create (cityscapes), this works great. I like to over expose and under expose by 2 stops each. I personally get good results from 3 shots. Technically you will need to shoot a minimum of 2 photos with different exposure settings to create a HDR. I have also just added a tutorial on HDR in Camera Raw (Photoshop CC 2015) (See bottom of this page for an updated HDR resource list)įirst we need to capture our source images with our camera. In Photoshop CC Camera Raw was added as an option, and Lightroom 6/CC can now merge HDR more about that here too. This tutorial will work for all versions, including CS6 and HDR in Photoshop CC. This tutorial will show you how to complete this process with the minimum fuss. Finally, merge these photos together to produce a single image with a larger range of tones that can now show all the details in the shadows and highlights. Shoot a normal exposure (center image), then under-expose (left) to capture the highlights outside the windows and over-expose (right) to capture shadow detail. The solution is to take more than one photograph and bracket the photos. When you are at the location, you are able to see all these detail with your eye, this is because the human eye can see a larger range of tones than the camera can capture on the sensor or film in a single photograph. Also the detail on the stair rail is lost because it’s too dark. Notice that the detail outside the door is lost because it’s too bright. The center image is a typical exposure, showing an average metering to produce the most detail possible. For example let’s look at the series of images I shot at the Bradburry building in Los Angeles. We meter for the most important part of the scene. Typically we sacrifice elements in a photo when we set the cameras exposure. Watch the HDR Intro video that explains what HDR isĪ camera is capable of capturing a limited amount of tones in a single photo (we call this dynamic Range, the range of tones that can hold detail between pure black and pure white). Basically it’s the process of taking multiple exposures and merging them together into a single 32 bit image. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D and is now in full force in photography. I n this tutorial we will take a look at HDR photography. I have also learned a great deal more about the subject, so I decided it was time for an update. I originally wrote this tutorial for Photoshop CS3, in the years since then, Photoshop has gotten a couple of big upgrades in the HDR area, and we are now at Photoshop CC.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |